Nay Bastide Gave
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Nay Bastide Gave Pays De Bearn Adrien Basse Cathalinat

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Pays de Béarn / Adrien Basse-Cathalinat

A day in Nay No car!

A Tuesday in Nay: the joy of the market without having to drive.
This Tuesday morning, I set off from Pau with a spring in my step. No driving, no hunting for a parking space, no pointless detours. I hop on the bus and let it carry me to Nay, with the Gave river close by and the Pyrenees in sight.

Cécile, a tireless explorer

Dynamic hiker, ready to reveal for your greatest pleasure, my favorites and hidden corners...

We’re making our way to Nay at a leisurely pace

As I get closer, the landscape changes gradually. The facades of the bastide come into view, the streets come to life, and I soon realise that Tuesday isn’t just any old day in Nay. It’s market day. The day when people take the time to look around, sample the goods and have a chat.

Transport tip:
Departs at 8.45 am from Pau station (Bus 534, arriving around 9.20 am / Nay Amphitheatre stop).
Tickets can be purchased on board the bus in cash only. Timetables and fares to be confirmed on the transport operator’s website.

At around 9.30 am... Entering Nay Via the market

I don’t need to look for long. The smells lead the way.
Around the market halls, on Place de la République, Place Marcadieu and in the neighbouring streets, the historic market has made itself at home. The stalls follow one after another: freshly harvested vegetables, cheeses with the rich scent of the mountains, bottles of wine, local specialities and a few roast chickens whose aroma wafts through the whole street.
I taste, I hesitate, I retrace my steps. My shopping bag fills up before I realise it. A piece of cheese, some fruit, crusty bread and a sweet treat slipped into the bag ‘for later’. Well… normally.
That’s what the Nay market is all about: around 120 stallholders and just as many good reasons to take your time.

At around 11.30 am... St Vincent’s Church Imposing and protective

I continue my stroll to the Church of Saint-Vincent.
Facing the Pyrenees, it has watched over Nay since the late 15th century. As soon as I step inside, my gaze is drawn upwards to the remarkable seven-ribbed ribbed vault. The stone, the height and the light naturally inspire silence.

Outside, the fortified bell tower tells of another era, when the church also played a part in protecting the town.
I take a few minutes to look around. I take in the details, the scale, the traces of time. Here, history does not seek to impress. It is simply there, solid and firmly rooted.

Lunch A Bearnese treat

It’s lunchtime, and here are a few ideas to treat yourself…
Brunch: L’Encanayais
Fish speciality: John Dory
Traditional restaurants: Le Bear-n-ay, Le Restaurant du Midi, Les Deux Palmiers, Histoire sans faim
Brasseries: El Txoko and Brasserie le Moderne

Looking for another dining idea? Have a look here!

A Basque beret or a Béarn beret? Bearnese!

Why is everyone familiar with the Basque beret but not the Béarn beret?

Legend has it that it was Emperor Napoleon who, during one of his stays in Biarritz, noticed this headwear worn by the locals and christened it the “Basque beret”. The Beret Museum is a must-visit if you have time to spare!

FBI Investigation at the bastide

The Director of the FBI
(the Béarn Investigation Unit),
Achille Milhoc, is recruiting budding detectives to help him solve a series of thefts.

Meet at the Tourist Office

Cultural Centre

Why not pop intothe Pays de Nay Cultural Centre, in the heart of the bastide?
It’s a lively, welcoming place where everyone feels at home. It houses a media library, a games library and the Micro-Folie digital museum.

Heritage walk Country house and industry

This heritage trail invites you to explore the bastide town of Nay at your own pace – an industrious town nicknamed ‘Little Manchester’ in the 19th century. As you stroll through the town, you’ll appreciate its exemplary bastide layout, its central square lined with arcades and its grid of streets dominated by the church.
Available on request fromthe Nay Tourist Office.

Vélosud Cycling through Béarn

Along the Vélosud cycle route, take a break by the river. In Nay, it only takes a few turns of the pedals to reach a shady spot that’s perfect for a picnic, nestled amongst the rushing water, pebbles and tall trees. Don’t have a bike? Hire one and let yourself be carried away by this gentle getaway in the heart of Béarn.

Early afternoon Beret Museum The only one of its kind in the world!

I push open the door to the Beret Museum and discover much more than just a simple head covering. The felt tells the story of shepherds, workers, traditional crafts and everyday elegance.

I look at the materials, the shapes, the tools. I imagine the hands that shape, press, cut and bring to life this object that has become almost universal.

The visit is authentic, accessible and full of character. Just like the beret itself.

That’s a Béarn beret!
(The beret is from Béarn)

Gascon saying

At around 3.30 pm The Square House A Renaissance gem

Late in the afternoon, I make my way to Place de la République and the Maison Carrée.
Behind this rather austere name lies a true Renaissance gem. As soon as I step through the door, I discover an inner courtyard surrounded by tiered galleries.
Light filters through the columns. The views change with every step. I look up and slow my pace even further.

This 16th-century townhouse has had many lives. Today, it hosts temporary exhibitions, lectures, performances and workshops. A permanent museum also tells the story of the building and the bastide, when it is open during exhibition periods.
I hadn’t expected to find such an elegant place in the heart of Nay. Perhaps that’s what I love most about it: the lovely surprises never seek to draw attention to themselves.

At around 4.30 pm... The Soulor Elegance on the move

Before rounding off my day in Naya, I stop off at a place that perfectly encapsulates a certain aspect of Béarn craftsmanship: Le Soulor 1925.
On Place du Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny, the company makes shoes designed for walking, built to last and to accompany adventures both big and small.

I look at the ankle boots, derbies, sandals and walking boots. I feel the materials and examine the finishes. Here, nothing seems to be made to be forgotten at the back of a cupboard.
I love this solid, understated elegance, with its roots firmly planted in the Béarn region.
And if I need a little more time to choose, I know there’s also a Le Soulor 1925 shop right in the centre of Pau.

At around 5.15 pm It’s time to set off

I’m heading home with a slightly heavier basket, a few good places to visit in mind, and that lovely feeling of having had a change of scenery without having gone very far.
My Tuesday in Nay had the flavour of cheese bought at the market, the aroma of roast chicken, the sound of the mountain stream and the charm of the old stone buildings.
A charming, intimate country town, a bountiful market, authentic Béarn craftsmanship and a day spent without a car, without rushing and without any fuss.
In the end, perhaps that was the real luxury: taking the time to live.

Transport tip:
Departure at 5.34 pm from the “Amphithéâtre” stop towards Pau. Tickets can be purchased on board the bus in cash only. Timetables and fares to be confirmed on the transport operator’s website.

A day in Nay FAQ No car!

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